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a la Colthard

Walking through the Cours Salaya market we were invited to sign a petition in favour of the stall holders and against the restaurants. When the market closes at 2.00pm their area is jet-washed and the restaurants spread into it. My sympathy is with the market and for what it’s worth duly signed the petition. The restaurants benefit from the market which attracts lot of visitors and still have their interiors for lunchtime custom.

After the debacle at La Petite Maison we decided to extend our net and were attracted to le Grand Bleu, a fish restaurant in the Cours Saleya. It sets out its seafood seductively and look charming and intimate at night. Our Munich friend Lottie is flying here on Saturday.

As she never been to Nice and this, rather than the queues and chaos of la Petite Maison on a Saturday night, seems a good initiation.

The market is always lively at night with the American Bar at one end being fashionable with young party-goers though we oldies prefer Ponchetes, a cafe opposite that catches the sun from midday onwards.

I have never been quite sure of the difference between bouillabaisse and fish soup except for the price as the former is much dearer.

The fish soup at Grand Bleu was as good as I have ever tasted, served generously in a tureen.

It savoured of fish with a rich, wholesome stock.

We followed this with a delicious whole bass suffused with fennel. The bill, with a bottle of Sancerre, was 75 euros per head. This is a great addition to our roster and we are returning with Lotti on Saturday.

As you leave the market for the street where Bob’s flat is situated you pass a divine dress shop and a sauna that appears to offer more than just a hammam but body heat too!  It never seems to be open but if it was I say “You are never too old or too bold”!!!

Daphne Colthard
About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts