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A La Colthard/The Hide

The Hide restaurant is fusion of restauranteur Ollie Dabbous and Hedonism Wines. It’s on three levels: Hide Above offering fine dining of set menu and a grazing one.

Ground Hide is all day at a la carte and there is a subterranean bar. Ground and Above have fine views over Green Park. I had been recommended the place by the same person who promoted the Ministry of Crab in Colombo.

I am not sure if I will rely on his third or future recommendations.

I was having my regular lunch with a highly successful businessman who likes – at least at lunchtime – simple food.

My heart dropped when I saw the set menu with options which would not appeal or a nine course menu with wine flights which was too copious for lunch. They could not offer the a la carte menu so we descended a floor. I can see why my friend is successful – as we stood waiting for a table, he simply grabbed one.

The a la carte menu offered more choice … at great expense. My burrata with fennel was £18, the octopus mains £38. My friend had a soup and cod. I had a raspberry ripple desert.

An attractive actress pushed round a trolley proffering champagne but, thank goodness for the bill, we only drank water.

Hedonism wine is the most expensive wine shop in London.

The expense of the place was reflected in an expresso costing £12. Had I ordered a double then it would be £24! The problem with such expensive dining that it puts a strain on expectations. At £175 for two, my reaction is not “Was it good?” but “Was it worth it?’

Readings the blurb, I noted that Ollie Dabbous majors on food and product integrity. For me, flavour, imagination, comfort, atmosphere and location are all more telling considerations.

And above all, cost.

Daphne Colthard
About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts

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