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Restaurant Reviews

A la Colthard : Fischers

I was talking to Neil Rosen the other day about creativity. I had read his comment that Kubrick is forever experimenting but Scorsese plays safe. The same applies to restaurants. Some restauranteur stay within their name and brand. This is not necessarily to criticise.  28/50 is always reliable in [...]

June 13, 2014 // 0 Comments

a la Colthard: Stanmer House

I call Sussex the new Rust Belt. Robert Tickler has acquired a pile on the cliffs by Roedean School, Alan Tanner is more downmarket with a bungalow he has bought in Worthing, whilst Nancy Bright Thompson has been a resident of East Sussex for many years. We all convened for tea at Stanmer House, [...]

May 31, 2014 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard : Kazan Wilton Road.

  I have a problem with Mediterranean cuisine, by which I mean Greek, Turkish and Levantine – namely, its lack of range and of diversity of restaurant. French food, particularly in France, has its grand foodie establishments; the brasserie ; the neighbourhood restaurant and – at [...]

April 22, 2014 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard : The Cherwell Boathouse

My old friend Sebastian, who is an art collector, invited me for a birthday treat to the Cherwell Boathouse in Oxford. He first wanted to view the Henry and Rose Pearlman collection at the Ashmolean: Cezanne and the Modern. Pearlman, an American tycoon, made his money in refrigeration. After [...]

March 20, 2014 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard :Tozi (again)

We restaurant critics rarely review the same place twice twice, let alone within 2 months.  At my first visit to Tozi I thought it sensational but my host then had known it well and ordered. This time I was the guest of an old friend and it was his first time. He did the ordering,  but the maitre [...]

March 7, 2014 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard

We restaurant reviewers like nothing more than home cooking. Sounds blasé but true. Last Friday Ollie decided to cook the meal. He is not an imaginative cook but prepares simple dishes well, so he went to the wet fish section of Waitrose and bought 2 crabs and some salmon. The salmon he cooked in [...]

March 3, 2014 // 0 Comments

Aqua Shard

There is a saying amongst restaurant reviewers “never trust a place with a great view.” There is another “never accept  an invitation from an owner”. I went against both yesterday when I visited Aqua Shard as guest of one of the two owners, Richard Ward. But first the view. [...]

February 20, 2014 // 0 Comments


Greens at Duke Street, St. James, was a great favourite of mine in the eighties. Owned by Simon Parker Bowles, it epitomised the elegant English fish restaurant but was always more fun than Wiltons or Bentleys. It certainly was not cheap but I took the view that I would pay a subscription if it [...]

February 14, 2014 // 0 Comments


  I detect something exciting and innovative in the restaurant scene. For the last 20 years it has been driven by celebrity chefs. Now new vistas are opening. I already praised, as have many, Mr Wong for its combination of street food and haute cuisine, in offering Hong Kong Chinese in a new [...]

January 24, 2014 // 0 Comments

The Regency, Brighton

As I was meeting Nancy Bright Thompson for lunch, I was mindful of her comment that travel writers are not that interested in writing about the cheap end of the market. It’s much the same with us restaurant critics, who are rather too easily seduced by sophisticated PR and the celebrity cult. [...]

January 14, 2014 // 0 Comments

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