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Restaurant Reviews

Aqua Shard

There is a saying amongst restaurant reviewers “never trust a place with a great view.” There is another “never accept  an invitation from an owner”. I went against both yesterday when I visited Aqua Shard as guest of one of the two owners, Richard Ward. But first the view. [...]

February 20, 2014 // 0 Comments


Greens at Duke Street, St. James, was a great favourite of mine in the eighties. Owned by Simon Parker Bowles, it epitomised the elegant English fish restaurant but was always more fun than Wiltons or Bentleys. It certainly was not cheap but I took the view that I would pay a subscription if it [...]

February 14, 2014 // 0 Comments


  I detect something exciting and innovative in the restaurant scene. For the last 20 years it has been driven by celebrity chefs. Now new vistas are opening. I already praised, as have many, Mr Wong for its combination of street food and haute cuisine, in offering Hong Kong Chinese in a new [...]

January 24, 2014 // 0 Comments

The Regency, Brighton

As I was meeting Nancy Bright Thompson for lunch, I was mindful of her comment that travel writers are not that interested in writing about the cheap end of the market. It’s much the same with us restaurant critics, who are rather too easily seduced by sophisticated PR and the celebrity cult. [...]

January 14, 2014 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/the Guinea Grill

For many years we have been having the Danida lunch – Davina, Nicola and Daffers at the Guinea Grill . Nic, an interior designer who has gone into  refurbishing houses in the Fulham area, is maddeningly well preserved. Years running her own ad agency and the consequent liquid lunching that [...]

December 21, 2013 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/ The Gay Hussar

I was so sad to see the Gay Hussar is about to go. It was a landmark restaurant patronised by the Left specialising in Hungarian food. The Standard food critic in the weekend supplement described the food as ” atrocious “which I thought a bit harsh. She based her withering critique on a [...]

November 30, 2013 // 0 Comments

Tuscan wine and food

It is impossible a job to make Fiorentina’s draw at Pacos in the Europa league of any interest to you so I thought I would tell you about Tuscan wine especially as I watched the game in the company of Master of Wine Andrea Rinaldi. Andrea insisted we tried the Castellare wine. it is less [...]

November 29, 2013 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard – Halepi

I do have a problem with Greek gastronomy and that is differentiating between the levels of cuisine. Off hand I cannot think of an expensive Greek restaurant where the cooking is a superior to the taverna. I sometimes wonder too if the Greek food we eat here is Cypriot and out there a Greek cuisine [...]

November 22, 2013 // 0 Comments

A La Colthard – Mr A Wong

A friend of mine, a Portuguese patissier of international renown , whose custardos are to die for accompanied and recommended me to this restaurant as a Chinese that redefined and pushed back the frontiers. It’s in Wilton Road next to Gran Paradiso as beloved by Tory politicians as Gay Hussar [...]

November 15, 2013 // 0 Comments

A la Coulthard – 28/50

I was back at 28/50. I have already reviewed this restaurant so I will only say its maintaining its high standards of service and cuisine. General Manager Ed Newman joined us and we had a good old gossip on the restaurant scene. I spoke of the outstanding greeting of Tabby at the London Edition. Ed [...]

November 14, 2013 // 0 Comments

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