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A la Colthard – 28/50, Marylebone Road

Daphne Colthard visits 28/50 Marylebone Lane

Us restaurant reviewers generally adopt a low profile.We avoid openings and book incognito.

Nonetheless warmth of reception is an important ingredient of a successful restaurant so when Ed of 28/50 Marylebone Lane hailed me warmly I was touched.

28/50 is part of the texture chain and they have opened another 28/50 in Maddox st. This is a brave step with The Pollen Strret social club and Goodmans offering stiff local competition. It majors on well cooked imaginative cuisine at affordable prices. The lunch menu we chose was £16.

I went for a velouté. The waitress explained this was now cauliflower and not celeriac based . I probably would not have noticed but this is good restaurant practice as some would. My friend also chose the soup and chicken breast, I selected a sea bass with a croustillant skin for mains . The portion was on the small size but it was the lunchtime menu. A friend of mine who knows his wine has sold 28/50 part of his cellar. We had water but the wine list is impressive.

The French waitress in leaning over afforded me sight of her rounded breasts which having a small décolletage myself I rather envied!!! My friend was too involved in recounting the planning and building saga of the house he is building near Goodwood to notice. Otherwise, the service was quick, reliable and professional.

Marylebone Lane is an interesting street for restaurants. Entrecôte de Venise always has a queue for its formulaic steaks and opposite Tony at the Golden Hind has a loyal clientele. His fish Is fresh, his prices fair with the added advantage of bring your own wine. However I would say 28/50 offers the best food in the area and is therefore a more than welcome addition.

In passing through Maddox St en route to Hermes for a silk blouse and tie for husband Ollie , i was greeted by Ed and I am reviewing the new restaurant next month.

About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts