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A La Colthard

I always appreciate being part of the Rust trip to Cornwall. My namesake is  a woman after my own heart who put her passions first!!  I’ve been put in charge of restaurants and here is my review of those visited:


This is pub in the centre of Fowey in which serves copious face. It’s not classy cuisine but if you are seeking a good feed at a reasonable price it’s the place for you. The service is friendly and helpful, there is a broad menu. We found it especially useful as it rained so much it was something of a dry haven.


My personal favourite. We went there last year for the first time and it made an excellent impression. It’s a small family run restaurant. The husband is the chef and a damn good one, his wife Claire the front of house. I had  scallops in a veloute and pea purée and scrumptious Brill. Cornish potatoes have a deservedly high reputation and they serve these dauphinois. Helpings are copious too. I could really find no fault except the place is small and the tables a tad cramped. With a local gin and tonic and jwines by the glass it came out at £50 per head.


We went there for Sunday lunch and were impressed. They served a roast with all the trimmings of either beef or duck but many veggie options. The service was friendly, the staff helpful and the food I would classify as reliable. The fixed price 3 course menu at £20 was good value and there were no complaints all round.


This new restaurant carries a massive reputation but I was disappointed when we visited yesterday. It’s right in the centre of Fowey with a terrace affording fine views over the Harbour. We sat out there for drinks and menus were brought. This proved quite a problem as the system was unclear. I thought at first that the dishes which were not classified into starters, manis and deserts were sharing platters, a formula which works well at 64 Degrees. The head waiter said we would be advised e.g. not to eat curried goat with something more delicate. This irritated me as I can work out flavours thank you very much. We were left rather abandoned on the deck and retreated inside after being told we were not having the table allocated as this was reserved. Earlier notification that we could either eat at 6.30 or 8.45 began to convey the impression to me that thus is a restaurant that puts their own running before client enjoyment. Worse when we did sit down on metal chairs with no support and narrow seats I’ve rarely been so uncomfortable. I know I am a bit broader in the beam than in my  glory years but the Tickler backside was uncomfortable too!!!  The waitress whom eventually took our order explained we should order 4 dishes and see how we go which only confused us all the more. Two starters, my salt beef and potted shrimps, came in jars which indicated pre-preparation. We then ordered another round, I had smallish half lobster. This won’t live long in the memory. One of our group never got his chips till after his  dish of monk fish. It was not that expensive at £35 per head but did not merit more. In short it was a restaurant that rated itself too highly, had a confusing menu  and had moved away from the basics of good restauranting.



In every restaurant  servings weer generous , the staff helpful but  there was also a Cornish mentality of not being overly welcome to the foreigner. Cornish tourism needs to look at this.  It’s now their staple industry and pretty coves, beaches and good rambling may not be enough.

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About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts