A la Colthard / 64 Degees: lost its compass?
We critics do have the fault of once we approve or disapprove a restaurant we do not visit it again. For sometime 64 Degrees has enjoyed a stellar reputation and I have visited the Brghton branch at least 10 times and the Pimlico the once. High standards were maintained.
However I visited the Brigton one recently and I was disappointed. It’s USP is the concoction of imaginative dishes.There is a tendency to over-create with a meat or fish, vegetable and sauce. In one case with a rump of beef there was a pea side-dish on bone marrow with a cloying sauce which I could only described as more mush than mushy. This dish cost £13 and the total bill for one was £54. The service was so slow that my neighbour threatened to leave. So my conclusion was its prices are too high, service too slow and too many dishes do not work. I’m going back there as part of Bob Tickler’s extended birthday celebrations so I will know if this a one-off or whether the London restaurant has drained the profit of the first.
I also checked up one of my faves, 28-50 in Marylebone Lane . As I have passed 40 ( I know I don’t look it!!!), I have to pay for the occasional dishy lunch companion. Gone are the days that a Gucci moccasin nestled on my Jimmy Choo and Daffers resisted going Dutch, though not the afters !!! I hope Olly is not reading this!!! Anyway the lunch menu at 28-50 was under £20 and this included a pumpkin velouté – soups are always delicious there -and a perfectly acceptable chicken breast and mash. Ed Newman their brilliant operational manager of the whole Texture group has moved Stateside but this restaurant continues to deliver good service and food at an acceptable price.