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A la Colthard : Fischers

I was talking to Neil Rosen the other day about creativity. I had read his comment that Kubrick is forever experimenting but Scorsese plays safe. The same applies to restaurants. Some restauranteur stay within their name and brand. This is not necessarily to criticise.  28/50 is always reliable in their three restaurants.

Chris Corbin and Jeremy Kng are for ever experimenting. They established their credentials with La Caprice, Ivy and Wloseley majoring on tip top service, buzzy atmosphere, the place to be and reliable cuisine. I liked St Aubin but it closed down  Cafe Delainay and now Fischers in Marylebone  High St are Austrian konditorei.

I went to Fischers yesterday. I took a dishy ex who does a lot of business in Vienna to test its authenticity. The interior with its brown oaky seats and the ambience of old Vienna caught by a large clock, photographs, authentic menu and name.

I had Bismarck herring which was a bit mean on portion control but tangy enough, served with paprika and sour cream. This I followed with wiener schnitzel Holstein with fried egg and anchovy. This was a bit gooey but that is the dish not the preparation and the veal was tender in a light not greasy batter. My friend had frankfurters of which he approved.

As with the Wolseley, it will be open all day and in area of restaurants will quickly establish itself. Even sily old Daffers has heard of Freud whilst Neil was citing Ernst Lubitsch,  Billy Wilder and Fred Zinnemann as celebrated Viennese cineastes  so the Corbin and King duet has imported some of the flavour of Vienna with all its talent into a fashionable thoroughfare in central London. Well done you.



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About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts