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A la Colthard: Novellinos and The Regency

Novellinos is a kosher restaurant owned by Tony Bloom and situated in the synagogue at Hove.

I had hoped it was a New York style delicatessen but it’s more bistro food. I ordered a salt beef sandwich (£14) and the meat was rather dry.

As you might expect, the clientele is almost exclusively religious Jews.

Brighton’s Jewish community numbers 1200 and once included (in Victorian times) notable families like the Montefiores, D’Avigdor-Gdschmids and Mocattas, but gradually over the years has declined in numbers though not in quality.

Billionaire Tony Bloom not only provided a new stadium for Brighton HAFC but is a considerable philanthropist for Jewish projects – the latest being the renovation of New Church Road synagogue.

The Jewish community need a kosher restaurant but I was a tad disappointed by this one.

Pre-Xmas a girl friend of mine came down and wanted to go to the Regency.

This landmark restaurant has arguably the best location in Brighton in Regency Square on the seafront and opposite the i360 watchtower.

My friend liked their hot seafood platter. Unfortunately it was no longer on the menu and – like many restaurants – the Regency had significantly raised its prices.

I ordered grilled octopus, which was a bit rubbery, and a rather greasy fish and chips.

We pushed the boat out on drinks with 2 Negronis, a bottle of Sauvignon blanc and Irish coffees.

It was great to catch up with my friend but the food was not as good as English’s and the price difference is now minimal.

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About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts