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A la Colthard: The Pig on the Beach

The Pig at Brockenhurst is one of my favourite restaurants. I could not wait to go the latest Hustin Pig on the beach at Studland. It’s had rave reviews.

I went there with my Godson, his mother and her sister and husband, who lived nearby. The booking was made months ago as you cannot get in for a weekend without doing so.

They had us down for four and had to adapt our table to five. This created a problem as we were uncomfortable in coping around the table. Twice the waitress jostled me, once nearly pouring a cup of water on me . Also they had another sitting at 2-30pm, which always leads to a rushed meal. It’s the old formula of locally sourced produce: the vegetables come for their herb garden. The meat, principally pork, fom local breeders and butchers.

There are breathtaking views over Harry Rocks and you can see the Isle of Wight. My readers know my views on restaurants with fine views. It can be a substitute for cuisine. I chose the bits of crackling, potted trout and pollock for starters and loin of pork for mains. These were of the high standard of the Pig, but Carol was disappointed in her lamb. My elderberry jelly suffered from the jelly being below a sorbet and biscuit. I tasted Carol’s blueberry brioche, which was scrumptious.

Carol’s sister said it was unfair to judge a restaurant on a busy Sunday and that our Brockenhurst Pig trip had been midweek. I am afraid that it this was when I exactly judge a restaurant. If they want a two lunch sitting, and a dinner one too, for each table then we, not they, are the victims of their success.

I  should add that there is a hotel with two secluded cottages which might be just the job for a discreet Affaire (even though Daffers is well past her sell  by date!!!) and lovely walks.

However I fear that the Pig brand is being over-extended as with Rick Stein. This would be sad as both have done so much to raise the profile and standards of dining out of London.

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About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts