A la Colthard :Tozi (again)
We restaurant critics rarely review the same place twice twice, let alone within 2 months. At my first visit to Tozi I thought it sensational but my host then had known it well and ordered. This time I was the guest of an old friend and it was his first time. He did the ordering, but the maitre was most helpful: he explained our frittura miste included the crab and calamari we had also ordered, suggested that a light fresh leaf salad would be pleasing on the palette after the fish, and selected for us a ravioli with buffalo mozzarella with truffles which was simply sensational. I genuinely believe that the food here is as good as anywhere in London, complemented by the fact that the platters are to share. It turned out to be a feast as my friend ordered a plate of cured meats as a starter and for puds he chose the affogato concoction of gelato, liqueur and coffee, whilst I went for a tart of ricotta and blood orange sorbet. As my friend did not drink alcohol, I was going to do the same but I had a couple of glasses of Sauvignon blanc as a zesty companion.
It’s difficult to find fault. The service was so attentive, perhaps to the point of interruption. Another huge asset is that, instead of packing the punters in and the tables for two being squashed together, as can happen in the Italian trattoria, it occupies a large space and you have all the privacy you want. The wide window also makes for a light airy ambience. Perhaps going in the evening will give me an excuse to visit this sublime restaurant for the third time.
