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A la Colthard/Tutto

The owner of Tutto, Raz Helalat, is one of Brighton’s best restaurateurs.

He started with the the Coal Shed, which still serves the best steaks in Brighton, opened the Salt Room in the Hilton Metropole and – more recently – the excellent Burnt Orange.

Now he has launched an upmarket Italian to the north of the Pavilion opposite St. Peter’s Church called Tutto.

I went there last Friday and was impressed.

For a first visit I prefer to go on my own as I’m less distracted.

Even though I was 20 minutes early – and the restaurant was still setting up – the greeting was warm and helpful.

I decided on a white negroni cocktail followed by calamari and a crab spaghetti. The calamari was served in a light fluffy batter with an aioli mayo and extremely tasty.

Other than the crab spaghetti having a slightly pervasive citric flavour, this was good too.

I accompanied both fish dishes with a glass of Pinot Biano from the Adige region. There was room for a rich tiramisu.

All finished off with a single expresso and grappa.

The bill came to £71.

Beside me sat two ladies I would guess in their early 40s.

One congratulated the other on her forthcoming marriage.

Over the prosecco the concerns were released. The prospective hubby was much older and wifey would be working whilst he remained at home.

The crucial question of their sex life was never aired. On a trip to the loo I clocked the gal whom I categorised as “tubby and no catch”. Still I was tempted to intervene with “Don’t do it! …”

Instead, feeling replete, I ordered a taxi and returned home.

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About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts