A la Colthard – Goodmans

There are 3 things initially to say about Goodmans. Firstly, it is extremely expensive, secondly the steaks are sublime, thirdly the chain is a runaway success. It’s unusual to start a review with a cost warning but would be diners should know that a starter , two steaks and decent bottle of wine for 2 will be £200. This is steep. Goodmans is not the Angus Steak House which symbolised the constraints of sixties gastronomy and decor nor is it the formulaic Entrecôte or Rowleys where you only eat steaks. It’s a proper restaurant with excellent service. So much so that a waitress brings out a board of raw steaks and explains the cut , type and cost of each . This was not unlike the scene in Five Easy Pieces with Jack Nicholson trying to order 2 items out of a platter of 5 from waitress Karen Black , and totally confused Charles my banking gent of a companion who somewhat in exasperation said to the waitress ” why don’t you choose?” Eventualy we chose a rib eye and t-bone sliced which we could both eat. Charles had smoked salmon to start and I had foie gras. Both were good but unexceptional except for their price £15. But oh what steak meat. I remember talking to an Argentine lawyer who said his country ‘s steaks were aggressive not bland on the taste buds. I don’t recall a better steak than one I devoured in Buenos Aires. Charles as he was driving had only one beer. I had one too and two 175 glasses of house red.

The bill was £150 including bread, portion of chips and mushrooms and mint tea and expresso to finish. We ate al fresco in Canary Wharf which is an enticing milieu on a warm summer’s evening with the water lapping against the skyscrapers. I have never been to Hong Kong but I imagine it has the same combination.

The first Goodmans in Maddox Street is so successful its hard to get in. This branch was full too but Thursday is probably its best night. I certainly enjoyed Goodman’s and would recommend it but its only for treats, expense accounts or somebody else paying.