28-50 and Kitty Fisher
Yesterday I visited an old favourite and a new recommendation. I’ve been going to 28-50 in Marylebone Lane for years and it’s never let me down. The two dishes I fancied, gazpacho and pork belly, were on the fixed lunch menu. Both delicious. Gazpacho can be cloying but here the fresh tomatoes were placed in the soup bowl and chilled gazpacho poured over it. The pork belly was crusty and tender. My companion and I stuck to water and our good dietary intentions were rewarded with a bill under £50. It was less crowded than normal and I know one of the staple faces behind 28-50 has opened Blandford Comptoir nearby which I have yet to visit.
Kitty Fisher came warmly recommend by a mover and shaker of an adman I know. That industry knows quite a bit about restaurants … they visit enough. It’s named after a famous brothel keeper and is to be found in a quarter reputed for low life, Shepherds Market. It reminds me of Montmartre with its cosy pubs and restaurants, one of those geographical Dickensian curios that London throws up. Like most small restaurants it’s necessarily cramped which adds to atmosphere if not comfort. At a nearby table a lady diner, the worse for wear, was drowning us with her raucous laugh. The food is described best as Iberian fusion. As with Petite Maison the trend is towards healthy Mediterranean eating. I was with Grania and Polly for a girlie night out. We tucked into appetisers of cod roe, anchovies on toast, tallego cheese and burrata – all tasty and delicious. I was disappointed though by the signature dish of Galician beef grilled three tines over a wood fire. I had to remove fat but it was still too greasy for my taste. At £88 for two the dish was expensive too. The summer pudding I finished with was fresh and wholesome. The girls were more enthused than I was by the whole experience. The card machine did not function apparently due to internet breakdown which delayed settlement of the bill. Afterwards we strolled round a Shepherds Market devoid of red lights. Maybe the ladies of the night can’t afford the rents or it’s another business where the Internet has taken over!!! At nearly £75 per head maybe a trendy Iberian bistro is a better option!!!!
Chatting to the waitress whilst yet another attempt was made with the card reader she informed me they opened 18 months ago, are doing really well and are looking for second premises. This can be a recipe for disaster as the name, erotic gravures in the loos and locale provide a distinctive character and appeal.
