A la Colthard/Malmaison Brighton

I have already visited the new Malmaison in Brighton Marina for breakfast when a refurb was in course so I thought I would go back with a French girlfriend in the event businesss. They acquired the hotel, formerly the Seattle, for £36m and spent another £3m on the refurb. It bore the familiar brand of the Malmaison, dark seductive colours of mauve and dark blue and the use of Mal throughout. The Malmaison now part of the Fraser Group have done a great deal to improve the quality of hotels outside London starting at the Quayside in Liverpool. It’s taken provincial hotels out of patterned carpets, Corby trouser presses, Gideon bibles to something edgy, sexy, fun. All of this suits the Brighton Marina with the added plus that it has decking overlooking the Marina.

I did not get off to a good start when I called into the hotel in the week and booked brunch for 11.00 am. Last Friday I was called to be informed this was impossible and the earliest reservation could be for 12.30. The lady said there was a “misunderstanding”. I retorted there was no such misunderstanding – the staff member at reception should know the hours meals were served. On arriving dining room we were told they were not set up yet and directed to the bar. Here we had a bloody Mary and whisky sour, well mixed by a helpful, friendly barman. On returning to the dining room there was no reservation at all. The menu offered 4 courses of a buffet of charcuterie and fish, fresh soup, a main and desert for £19.99 which is excellent value. The Hotel du Vin , the Malmaison’s rival in Brighton offers the same menu for £24.99 so they are clearly going head to head.

The buffet was copious. A big place of cured meats, smoked salmon, prawns, mackerel and cheese board. I piled my plate high. The spinach soup was hearty and fresh and flavoursome. I elected for roast beef, two thick slices of prime Angus beef under a Yorkshire pud with two side plates of parsnips , carrots and cauliflower. Chantelle had beef stroganoff and was beginning to struggle with portions. We had a creme brulee and blueberry trifle for puds. The service was a tad slow particuarly in getting the bill to us. As this was £132 to include a bottle of Tempranillo and fizzy water I could hardly complain!!

Despite the teething logistical problems, the Malmaison is clearly trying hard to make an impact. The Marina with its high service charges, rents and business rates attracts restaurant chains of the superior fast food variety so the the cool Malmaison is a welcome addition.

Finally Chantelle took a mobile photo of the food and one of me which came out with funny ears. This is the Snapchat phenomenon which earned the owners and founders billions of dollars. I am in the wrong business!!