A la Colthard/ Bucca di Lupo

Last night I visited for the first time a Soho Italian restaurant called Bucca di Lupo. Not knowing the restaurant at all I was not sure what to expect but my old friends of many years standing had recommended and chosen it. My male friend ‘s family once had a second home in Umbria and over the years I have found him reliable and enthusiastic source of knowledge on Italian gastronomy.

I arrived before the couple. I found a smallish crowded restaurant in Archer Street in Soho near Shaftesbury Avenue. Originally we could only be offered seat at the bar which is alright for lunch on the hoof but not for a catch up. However we were soon moved to a table for four. I chose a carpaccio of sea bream and suckling pig with polenta. The sea bream, cured and tender was quite delicious and an ideal starter. The suckling pig was served with a reduction of rich sauce with chestnuts and mushrooms, wholesome, hearty , scrumptious. We all finished with a blood orange water ice to clear the palate. We had 2 bottles of Soave. The final bill was £55 per head.

The only problem like many Italian restaurants was high noise level not helped by a car alarm going off outside the restaurant. One irony is that my friend has a reputation for falling asleep at table towards the end of the meal. His wife pointed out that at a nearby table two youngish diners were both fast asleep. I have never seen this before. The restaurant staff looked increasingly concerned and eventually they were ushered out of the restaurant by which time my friend was ‘off the air’. I am not that keen on the Italian restaurant driven by the owner often carrying his name with cookery books and schools. So an independent that served interesting, cutting edge Cucina is very welcome.