A la Colthard/ Langans rides again
Over the weekend in the Financial Times supplement appropriately named How to Spend it I read a review of the new Langans – acquired and revamped by Graiano Arricale and James Kitchen.
The original Langans was the restaurant of the 70s and 80s.
Michael Caine, Peter Langan and Richard Shepherd were the three founders. Langan in his white suit – and consumption of 13 bottles of champagne daily – was very much front of house but Shepherd, the logistics man, was fundamental.
The paparazzi gathered out inside the doors of Stratton Street to snap the great – and not so good – inside.
Heaven forbid that you were allocated a table upstairs, known as Siberia.
The article brought back many personal memories but also consideration of whether a total makeover could recreate the ambience.
I had many a date there. My suitor would order champagne first date, Sancerre the next time and – if the relationship was not going well – thereafter house wine.
In charge of the floor was Michael, squeezed into his suit, with more the air of a debt collector than an MC.
There was wonderful art on the walls with a Francis Bacon and a delightful sketch of the three founders on the menu by David Hockney.
The food may not have been exceptional but the craic most certainly was.
Peter Langan passed away in 1988.
The Ivy began to overtake it though it was always popular with footballers and Essex. My reports were that it was passé and last year it went into administration.
The article stressed the merits of designers Fettle Designs on lay-out and Peter Mikic, an interior designer to the rich and famous. Siberia will be a house a studio 54 style disco for clients only.
I had a look at the website and bangers and mash cost £37.
See here, the signature spinach soufflé with anchovy sauce is retained (£17)- LANGANS’ MENU
Whilst wishing the venture every success, my own view is that decor does not define a restaurant
The old Langans was about the people who dined there and besides art and music create more atmosphere than interior design.
Times and diners have changed and if you went to Langans in its heyday you would be at least in your 60s now.

