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A la Colthard /Marrocco

I have often complained that the British gastronomic tradition lacks the concept of the “restaurant du quarter” (neighbourhood restaurant) unlike France. So in this regard I am delighted to recommend Marrocco on the esplanade at Hove. Old man Renato Marrocco came to England in 1962. After opening a cafe in East St in the centre of Brighton in 1969 he moved to their present establishment in Hove. It’s situated right at the end of the Hove lawns, one of the best places to stroll in Brighton and Hove, and next to the palatial residence of Dave Gilmour which the musician bought from Chris Eubank. Here is link to their website – Marroccos

They are famous for their ice cream which must do well given their location on the seafront. They also run a delivery service but at heart serve Italian food traditionally cooked. I had calamari cooked in a light batter, nothing worse than when you cannot taste the fish for a coating of greasy crust. I followed this with a copious spaghetti vongole (clams) served with chili, garlic and white wine and scrumptious. There was still room for gelato, two scoops of mango and lemon. Their reputation as Gelateria is well deserved. The wine was fairly charged, £7 for a full glass of Gavi. The final bill was hardly outrageous at just over £25 per heard.

Criticism are harder to make. My internet reservation was never received or acted upon and Bob Tickler who has put on a few pounds could not squeeze into the banquette. Otherwise the service was professional enough, the wine and desert served by la mamma Signora Marrocco herself. I was only disappointed Dave Gilmour did not drop in for a gelato. I would haven enjoyed a duet of Another Brick in the Wall !!! I read he is well up the Sunday Times Rich List at £100m. I will help him spend it!!!

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About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts