A la Colthard / Pike and Pine
Chef Matt Gillan earned his stripes at the Pass, South Lodge Hotel near Horsham and deservedly so. The food on his grazing menu was spectacular, my only criticism that you had to perch on stools. He has now opened the Pike and Pine in Brighton. Curiously by day it is the Redcoaster Cafe. Brighton restaurants suffer at lunchtime Monday till Friday so perhaps this was the rationale, namely the footfall in slack restaurant times. Aside from identity (it describes its decor as botanical setting) there is a problem of configuration. The tables are set alongside one side with stools at the bar. When we were shown to the bar I asked for a proper table as I had no wish to eat a lengthy meal at the bar. Sometimes as when I am having lunch on the hoof or want to watch the preparation at establishments like Barrafina or 64 Degrees I am more than happy to perch but not when I am having a catch up meal with a girlfriend. We were repeatedly told that they could not accommodate us as all the tables were taken for 4 diners. I played the restaurant critic card. There appeared to be no overall manager but a greeter and eventually they found a table for two which they set up for us. Sometimes it’s useful to write for the Rust!!!!
We chose the eight course grazing menu (£65) and paired wines (£45). Grazing menus take away the stress of ordering but how do they cater for the allergist to certain foods? The menu comprised 4 snacks, mushroom soup with truffles (£10 supplement), pigeon Caesar salad, skate, pork belly, supplemental cheese course (£20 with port), 2 desserts of mango and pecan and sorbet. All the dishes were of high quality in terms of flavour, all well explained as were the wines most of which were pretty well known, GrunerVeltner, Provençal rose, a dull Australian Shiraz. My favourite dish was the tender milky pork belly. The final bill came to a staggering £285.
My thoughts as I left were not so much that we had enjoyed an expensive albeit tasty meal but more it will be around in year’s time. My feeling is no. There are not enough diners that will pay those sort of prices and it is not set in the leafy grounds of a luxurious country hotel. Its location at the foot of St James Street (similar to Wardour Street in Soho) is rather sleazy. Some degenerate invaded the restaurant and was promptly shown the door. I have a feeling in a year’s time my friend and I will be enjoying an over priced Barista coffee and snack and not the 8 course menu.
