A la Colthard/ updates

 

English’s

My recent visit more or less coincided with a less than positive review in The Mail on Sunday from Andrew Parker Bowles. The gist of his critique was that he was disappointed when ordering off piste by the tempura oysters and tuna tartare and at £49 the lobster thermidor was too expensive. I visited the restaurant shortly after the review and without prompting my two guests ordered the self same oyster and tuna which they appeared to enjoy. I had West Mersea oysters which Andrew praised and fish and chips, the best in Brighton.

If you eat lobster anywhere the price is racheted up but equally English’s offer a 2 course menu with plenty of choices for under £20 and I have never been shocked by the bill. It’s a traditional sea food restaurant that has more than survived since 1945 with excellent service (the three managers Andre, Antonio and Nick have not changed in 3 years nor have many of the waiters). More relevant criticism would be the inadequacy of the loos and the cramped configuration of the tables if you eat indoors (ask for tables one or two). Outside this it has maintained a high level of cuisine and service at a fair price.

Sartoria

This was my second visit to this Savile Row restaurant and I was disappointed. There was a mix up on the reservation, partially my fault as I asked the p/a of the friend that recommended it and took me there to make the reservation thinking I would get the roomy table of last time. I was obliged to reschedule and this time made the reservation myself. Despite giving my name no less than 4 times the greeter could not find my booking on her iPad. May I suggest an old fashioned reservations book in pen and ink?

The burrata was good but not as good as Petite Maison and the spaghetti carbonara too salty. The restaurant was a third full and this was a Friday. It’s driven by chef Francesco Mazzei and very dishy he is too but he needs to keep an eye on this as standards have dropped though not the prices – £130 for 2 without wine.

 

Joe Allen

If you like simple New York deli food reliably cooked then Joe Allen is the place foe you.

I had a gorgeous crab and avacado timbale and chili con carne with chunky beef and guacamole.

With drinks beforehand and wine by the glass the final bill was £65 per head. Again the restaurant was almost empty. We arrived after a show but it has a theatre reputation so this surprised me.

In my naughty past I enjoyed the restaurant equivalent of a one night stand (!!!) but as we get older and no disrespect intended to husband Ollie , tried , tested and trusted is the order of the day. A proper greeting, well cooked food, pleasant service ,an interesting wine list and a fair price have all kept English’s in business for 72 years.