A la Colthard/Malmaison Brighton and 64 Degrees

I have always been a fan of the Malmaison chain which has done so much to improve hotel standards out of London. I can recall the days when the provincial hotel was about patterned carpets, The Gideon bible, the Corby trouser press and execrable food. The Malmaison began on the Quayside at Newcastle and is cool , dark, edgy sexy. Its arrival at Brighton was long awaited. Brighton hotels divide into the larger mausoleum edifices on the sea front like the Grand or the more boutique ones like the Hotel du Vin and now the Harbour .

The Malmaison took over the Seattle In Brighton marina and I heard was now undergoing a £3m refurb so I thought I would check it out for breakfast. Workmen were everywhere as were wet paint signs which begs the question whether the hotel should have been shut down. I was meeting Grania , the best friend of Bob Tickler’s p/a for breakfast. This was a buffet of fresh fruit, juices, croissants and cereals . Grania ordered porridge and I kippers off the full menu which came to just under £32 for two, not bad for a hotel breakfast. Sadly the conservatory terrace that overlooks the Marina was closed for works so we had to sit without a view in comfy dark interior. I will return for dinner. I remember in my naughty but fun era inthe eightities having to book onto dull ,stolid establishments as Mrs D Smith, how I would have appreciated the seductive interiors and cheery wink of welcome of the Malmaison!!!

I had a visit to the hairdressers and shopping to do in central Brighton so I decided to have lunch on the hoof at the bar of 64 Degrees I have always regarded this as the best restaurant in Brighton and wanted to see whether standards were consistently upheld . It received a glowing review in the local newspaper. I was delighted to see owner Michael Bremner preparing food as I sat opposite perched on a stool . He was more intent on preparation and supervision than having a chat . I wanted to try the dishes praised in the review but only the hispi sweetheart cabbage in hollandaise served with truffle was not on the menu. I ordered the hispi sweetheart cabbage , pork belly, squid and lamb. The pork belly was a tad dry ,the squid wrapped over a pancetta interior was delicious and copious and the lamb served witha spicy tomato salsa and green leaf wrap to die for. Michael in not apologising said that they rotated dishes intentionally to avoid signature dishes and complacency . At £71 with one glass of wine 64 Degrees is some 25% dearer than when I first visited 3 years ago but to be fair the concept is shared platters and there was enough served for two. The waitress could have been more attentive . However the mission of imaginative cuisine and watching the preparation was still thriviing as even on a cold Thursday the restaurant was more or less full.