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A la Colthard /Le Colombier

I visited this restaurant for the first time as it is a favourite of a good friend of mine a retired art dealer called Sebastian. It has, with its terrace and pretty blue and white interior, very much the flavour of Paris and you might term the cuisine as reliable French brasserie. Situated right by the Royal Marsden, a hospital I would be happy never to visit, it seems to attract old Chelsea clientele, the sort who live in gracious apartment blocks in Draycott Avenue. I recognised Lord Hesketh- a friend of Daddy’s – on a neighbouring table.

I ordered from the set menu (£20) a walnut, roquefort and endive salad and breast of duck. Sebastian had a shellfish bisque and beef stroganoff. Sebastian insisted I tried the shellfish bisque and it was so divine that I ordered a small one for myself. I always enjoy Magret de canard and this was cooked in a tangy orange sauce that was never cloying..  It’s the sort of place that has a regular clientele with their table of preference. It also has private dining room and I saw some distinctly affluent middle eastern types arrive to use this. Daffers always available  for liqueurs after the big business chat!!

We had no wine and the final bill came to £60, not bad these days.  It’s good to see a restaurant that offers a set price menu with good selections too. The basketwork seats might have been wider and more comfortable to accommodate the widening Colthard hips (!!!) but this aside I could find little fault.

Le patron Didier, a distinctly dishy Frenchman, used to run the St Quentin chain and has put years of restaurant experience to good use. He remains in the establishment – not one of those celebrity chefs who designs a menu, gives his name and then that is the last you see of him. I am always big on greeting and adieus and enjoyed my farewell kiss.  No one kisses like a Frenchman and if he is a patron of a fine restaurant that only helps!!!

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About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts