The Jetty restaurant /Brighton Harbour Hotel
Brighton seafront is getting a makeover. On Thursday the 360 i tower with the highest viewing platform in the UK is unveiled at a cost of £32m. It’s a controversial project but one of its aims is to improve the area between the Pier and the Hove border line which has become run down. Restaurant-wise the Salt Room at the Hilton Metropole has opened to mixed reviews. Now we have a cool boutique hotel the Brighton Harbour. The rooms are not yet open but the restaurant – the Jetty – is and yesterday I visited it. I was impressed. It’s the third of three Jetties, the other two being in Christchurch Dorset and Salcome Devon.
Unlike the Salt Room I did not have to confirm the reservation twice to find a half full restaurant. The greeting was warm and we were shown to a table of four comprising a banquette style sofa and wooden chairs neither of which were especially comfortable. The decor was yellow and blue to reflect no doubt a sun sea and sand milieu with off-white planked walls like beach huts. The waiter was helpful but embarrassed there was no longer lobster on the menu. I went for a cheese soufflé and veal Milanese. The soufflé was delicious, a mouthwatering combination of crusty top and soft creamy interior. I am a bit of a connoisseur of veal Milanese. The secret lies in the batter which must not be too crusty nor thick. This was light within the added beneficial ingredient of capers. It was served with a small pot of macaroni cheese, rather similar in taste to the soufflé, and rather too rich, mashed potato would suffice. My guest had fish and chips with a light fluffy batter and the other guest delicious scallops in salad nicoise and a fresh local plaice over-salted in parts. For puds I had Eton Mess though in reality this proved to be summer pudding with raspberry sorbet and small cones of meringues.
I felt I was in the South Beach of Miami with the ocean beyond and cool relaxed dudes in shorts. Most of the best restaurants in Brighton are located in the Lanes with no sea view so the Salt Room and the Jetty have the edge here with sea views. Of the two not only is the Jetty the better but with a bottle of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc £133 for three better value too. The hotel bedrooms are not finished but the uber cool look is preserved in the bar and lounge area.
Brighton is a brave innovative place. The Marina, built some 35 years ago, has now a new modern development of 821 apartments with new restaurants: there is the i 360 watchtower: all sit alongside the traditional historic attractions of the Lanes, Pier and Royal Pavilion. Cool hotels like the Hotel du Vin and now Brighton Harbour – and possibly the Malmaison if it can get its act together – will challenge bigger hotels like the Grand Metropole, Royal Albion and the Ship. Will Brighton with its gay population convening for Pride next weekend shed its naughty image? This girl hopes not!!!
