A la Colthard/Noble Rot and Regency Brighton

I returned to Noble Rot in the week for lunch.

It’s located in Greek St Soho – a quarter much changed in the last 20 years.

Noble Rot had a reasonably-priced fixed price menu but, as I wanted the roasted chicken with morels au sauce jaune, I went a la carte.

I invited an old and elegant friend, a man of fastidious taste. He takes the view that the position of the table is important so we moved twice which we could as the restaurant, though small was only half full.

Happily installed and helpfully achieved by the staff we ordered the chicken but it’s cooked on the spot so we had to wait 45 minutes.

You therefore need a starter, but my advice would be to make it a light one, as the whole chicken is divided into 6 pieces and is very rich.

Our helpful waitress told us that one diner ordered and ate all of the bird on his own but the two of us could only manage 5 pieces  between us.

My friend said it was superb but enough for four.

The restaurant prides itself on its wine list as Noble Rot was originally a wine company.

I heard the waitress explaining in some detail which English wine to order.

I had 2 glasses of the Trocken Riesling. Very fragrant but expensive by the glass.

I took the bill which was just over £151.

This is what you expect to pay nowadays in a high-end fashionable central London restaurant. I prefer lunch-time here as the noise level is more tolerable and it was very much a catch-up lunch.

The Regency restaurant is situated on the Brighton seafront and opposite the watchtower, which I read is losing BA as a sponsor and lost £5m last year (its entrance ticket is £16 and there is not that much to see in your 20-minute journey to the skies, nor to persuade you to return).

Regency has  been going for years and is probably the best value in town for reliable fish.

I met a girlfriend I have known for years. We chose the hot seafood platter with lobster and oysters included, at £55 for two.

We had cocktails, a bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon and two large brandies and it worked out – with 3 generous scoops of pistachio ice cream – also at £151.  This was excellent value.

It was a sunny day and we walked along the beach afterwards as it was a glorious sunset. All in all, a memorable day.