A la Colthard/Bocca di Lupo

The favourite Soho trattoria is something of an institution. Alice (Mansfield) told me that George Melly, best known as a jazz vocalist, used to meet fellow Surrealists at the Barcelona in Beak St; artists have long patronised the drinking clubs of Soho, notably the Colony Club – of which Francis Bacon was a founder. Someone I know, operating in the sleazier side of Soho, swears by the Piccadilly.

Last Tuesday I met an old friend and keen lover of cucina italiana at his favourite Bocca di Lupo in Archer Street, not far from Piccadilly Circus and parallel to Shaftesbury Avenue.

I always arrive early but my friend always arrives late.

I find that period of waiting is useful in assessing greeting, atmosphere and indeed the menu.

I was rather disappointed to find the restaurant rammed with diners and we were allocated a table for two down one side. Italian restaurants tend to cram in the tables for two.

The other problem was the noise. It’s that time of year for raucous diners.

The food, though, was good. I chose a frito misto for mains and my friend a John Dory, which was a huge fish.

We did not have starters, but my friend ordered some bay leaf frittatas as an appetiser.

He is an authority on wine so I let him order this. We supplemented this with various individual glasses – not the most economic way – but, hey, it is the festive period and I’ve known him for 50 years.

The service was good but the waiters had to be nimble as the table dining area was small, though there was a bar service. The bill was £180 for 2 which was not unexpected.

I would recommend Bocca di Lupo, but hopefully on a quieter day.