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A la Colthard/something old, something new, something different

We restaurant critics are not always the best in recommending places to eat on the hoof but for many that is exactly what is required.

Last week I was in London and my first port of call was the Brass Rail at Selfridges for a tongue accompanied by a salt beef half sandwich.

It’s the best salt beef in town – though more of a cafeteria with little atmosphere – but it serves its purpose well.

That night I was in the St James area for a gallery opening.

A couple I know well were looking for dinner afterwards and we went to Maison Français in Duke Street.

This was once Green’s – owned by Andrew Parker Bowles – the haunt of Terry Venables and Bobby Keetch.

I was known to show a leg in the Oyster Bar!!

It was my first visit; the cuisine was French Brasserie and superb. It would have been perfection but for a somewhat intrusive waiter.

Friday night I visited an old favourite – Fischers – that serves Austrian cuisine.

Always reliable, but noisy and a poor greeting.

My culinary tour ended at The Royal China Club.

This is the upmarket version of Royal China chain and I had cantonese duck, which was delicious. Of all these establishments this had the best service.

So a New York style deli, a French brasserie and a Viennese Konditorei , decent Chinese – none of them except the Brass Rail but plenty of choice in London!

 

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About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts