At The Bernabeu
Alan Tanner and I can now reveal our reasons for being here: we have tickets to see Real Madrid. We thought Real Madrid v Athletic must mean Atletico Madrid but in fact it was another Athletic, Bilbao. The Athletic in Bilbao reflects its English origins. A Bilbao student was sent to London after the club’s formation to find some football kit. He could not find enough shirts but at Southampton prior to the boat journey home he acquired 50 Southampton red and white striped ones. The surplus were went to Atletico Madrid and these still remain both club’s colours. Bilbao recruited initially English managers and only selected Basque players. They are now more widespread, have never been relegated and this season are doing well in seventh place. They seem to be a combination of Everton and Yorkshire Cricket Club. We were so looking forward to visiting the Bernabeu too.
In the morning I called Aero City the shuttle transfer company. I explained as Anna had organised our transfer to the airport theirs could be cancelled but could they deliver and collect us from the Bernabeu? This they agreed to for no charge. Feeling pleased with this negotiation, I set off with the main party to see the Thyssen collection.
I’m not that knowledgeable on art but even I could see this was a trip round the great art treasures of the world collected by members of the Thyssen family with no interest in iron and steel. The second floor was more religious art whilst the first housed Monet, Sisley, Camille Pissaro and on the fourth impressionist Renoir had his own exhibition. There were Goyas and Miros; Braques and Legers; Gauguin, Derain, Courbet and Corot. Some of the less well known artists did not match this quality. What an eye and budget they must have had!
Afterwards we took a city tour bus. This took us north to the commercial quarter and Bernabeu, which as events turned out was just as well. Lunch was taken at Parrilla. Daffers explained that this was the name given to an Argentine grill house and the therefore the steaks would be worth eating. They were indeed delicious, mine in a Roquefort sauce. The restaurant also provided us free with a glass of pumpkin soup, pate, fruit yoghurt, chocolate and best of all a flavoursome natural orange smoothie as digestive. When we arrived at 2.00 the restaurant was all but empty but when we left at 3-30 it was totally full. We decided to have a siesta and Alan and I would meet at 6-50 for the carrier. We asked for Sergio who took us for the airport.
The black Mercedes people carrier arrived on time, there was no Sergio and the driver asked us if we wanted terminal dos. We explained we wanted the Bernabeu. We called aero city who had no record of any reservation and could not assist us without a reservation number. Matters were further confused by the driver assuming we were speaking to him and going into one in Spanish. Eventually we arrived at the Bernabeu. Alan was concerned how we would return but I said if we went to the bus top of the City tour there must be buses returning to the centre.
The Bernabeu is named after a construction magnate Santiago Bernbeu, who was a friend of Franco and President when Real won the Europoan Cup 5 years running . It’s a steep stadium with 5 levels of seating but rather compact to the point of being cramped. The ultra gather in two sections behind the goal on the fourth and fifth level. The club is quick and constant to remind us of the number of European and domestics trophies won in the free programme and on the scoreboard. Most of the supporters like us were overseas visitors and there was the normal-photo session with cameras. The season ticket holders were old, smoked cigarillos but we said there was none of the camaraderie you would see at Brighton or Fulham. The stewards might have been more helpful, twice we were shown to the wrong seats. It appeared we were in the wrong vomitorio which despite its unpromising name I take it means section.
We knew the Real team who lined up under manager Zidane in 4-3-3: Navas, Carvaljal, Ramos, Varene, Pepe, Rakovic,Kroos,Isco, Ronaldo, Benzema, Bale. I was less familiar with the Bilbao team who featured a black forward called Williams. Real relied on long, diagonal passes to Bale or Ronaldo. One early such pass to Bale was lost and retriived by him , he passed to Benzema who netted. Gradually Bilbao got back into the game and before half time equalised. Williams had a one to one chance which he skied. Ronaldo was having a poor game. He has only scored twice all season and was well off the pace, missing chance after chance in the second half. The crowd began to wolf whistle. The chap next to me frequently rubbished the team and used the word “conjo” which means wanker while the guy behind very pleased with his wit said everyone who wears red must necessarily be a puta (a whore). The singing of the ultras orchestrated by a loudspeaker did continue but the team’s heads seemed to go down. The substitution of Isco was greeted by more wolf whistling. Alan had seen Morata play last season up front for Juventus and could not understand why he didn’t come on. He did to score the winner. This put Real top of the table but here was not exactly a feeling of joy as we filed out in the rain. We found the bus stop and bingo! the first one we could get on ended its journey at Tribunal which we knew was 3 minutes away from the hotel.
So how does our visit weigh in terms of the Rust debate of attendance v tv watching? We could now say we have visited the Bernabeu. In terms of sight lines, leg room and accessibility I would give it 6 out of 10 and cigar smoke was ghastly. There was a lofty grandeur about the club with which we could not identify. We would probably support the fourth team of Madrid, Getafe. The seat price for a place midway between the penalty area and half way line was 100 euros. The critical atmosphere did not intimidate visitors. If a team was playing there the best option is to frustrate and the crowd will soon turn. Yet undoubtedly it was a memory we will treasure.
