Good morning Vietnam
When I take my morning constitutional on deck 9 I always see a hulking man in his sixties, an American with a thick Brooklyn accent, with a slim girl who must be half his age. They were on the tour of Ho Samui and at a poolside disco when he, rather the worse for wear, danced in an uncoordinated fashion waving his arms like windmills. Two days I said ‘Good morning’ to him three times without reply so now we studiously ignore each other. I think the source of the animosity is his partner who has an intent troubled air. I also think the trip is not going well in terms of their relationship. I’ve heard stories of young ladies who are prepared to go on a cruise with a more elderly man. Indeed I know a language teacher locally who for several years spent the month of January with a man many years her senior.
The problem is that she favours an active holiday whilst the other party seeks something more passive. I thought of this as here the younger woman went into a power walk, elbows pistoning and propelling forward at speed, whilst the other man lumbered slowly behind and moaned “I can’t go any faster. I’m not fit”. As is the way of things, having decided we all dislike each other I keep on bumping into them but of the delightful couple I met in the Shangrila there is no sign.
Once again there was a most informative lecture on Vietnam. This time the lecturer an ex-diplomat concentrated on more its politics and society. It has a population of 97 million. Of the 42 million working population 6-7 million work in security for the government.
The old Southern Vietnam is more cosmopolitan. Saigon has not really been renamed Ho ChiMinh City, the commercial area is called Saigon rather like Manhattan in New York.
It is one of the fastest growing economies in the world. On arrival at the port I saw skyscrapers and much evidence of construction.
Later in the evening we went for a dinner and a show and the city is full of bright neon lights, restaurants and cafes.
Of the four major cities we have visited so far Delhi, Mumbai, Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh, the latter has made the best first impression.
The first two are highly polluted and pockmarked by slums and in the third I did not detect the same energy permeating every fibre of its being.
The lecturer had first come to Saigon at the start of the Tet offensive in January 1968 and was scared of snipers he said that he returned a few years ago. The difficulty in crossing the road with literally hundreds of scooters bearing down on you with no observance of any Highway Code created a greater fear in him.
For once the staff were helpful by including me on an evening tour already sold out even giving me a discount.
It as if my success in the laundry room had spread and I enjoyed respect and status.
We went first to the Majestic Hotel where we saw a show of folkloric music and dancing.
The musical instruments were totally different to those in a western orchestra.
The dancing girls had serene beauty and grace.
We then went for a Vietnamese meal.
Vietnamese street food is all the rage and it’s an interesting fusion of oriental and French.
They served spring rolls duck in mushroom sauce, sautéed beef in bamboo tube and steamed rice with pork.
It was fine but not memorable. We had a lively table, my neighbour being a jolly Aussie.
It was rather odd as the the table service was very attentive but we were left to serve ourselves on the platters on the table. The Aussie dished it out.
I am unusual in being a cruise virgin. Almost all have been on cruises before and most with this company. They like the convenience of coming ashore in a matter of minutes. Equally we are back on the boat 15 minutes after leaving the restaurant. It’s also an interesting appetiser. I feel I have “done” India and Thailand and am unlikely to return. However I am much looking forward to the next 5 days in Vietnam and as General MacArthur 0nce said:”I will return” …
