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Seville

Seville: the capital of Andalusia, the city of oranges, Carmen and the ‘Barber of’ opera,Velazquez, and a football team that has won the Europa Cup three years running. It has the  most beautiful Gothic cathedral in the world , the Alcazar Palace built by the Moors, and fine restaurants. The clever visitor will prep up on all of these but I bet – like me – he will be caught out by one of its lesser known defects. Like Venice it is extremely hard to navigate.

The hotel in the old town where I booked in the Casa de la Juderia certainly prepares you for what your are about to receive. It is in fact no less than an amalgam of some 27 houses.

After checking in – and this is no Tickler exaggeration – I was led by a bellman with my luggage down a long corridor to a lift to the subterranean level, through the catacombs along a lengthy tunnel to another windy walkway, out of the building, across a street (where I was greeted by another concierge), up another lift, then a staircase, and then to my room. I was not alone in finding this a problem. The previous guest – on his feedback form, still on the desk – had complained of a lack of map, assistance and signage.

My friend arrived from Madrid. We attempted to find our way out, found ourselves out on the street by another exit, and very soon were lost. It was apparent that my friend did not possess the one asset needed here, a sense of direction. We asked various pedestrians the way and eventually found ourselves back in front of the hotel more or less where we started. At this point we found a pleasant cafe, ordered a beer and prepared for the next foray to the cathedral.

It has to be said that this – in the sunset at 7-30pm – was a breathtaking spectacle with its high tower, immense size and handsome gothic architecture. En route we passed various tapas restaurants with outdoor tables. I chose one – Casa des Robles – where the food – anchovies, Serrano ham on toast, a dried concoction of mullet, onions and courgettes and clam in a glutinous sauce with prawns – was totally delicious. It had been a long flight, I did not have my normal siesta and I was tired. You know the sort of fatigue to which I refer – when all you long for is bed, sleep and rest.

Sadly it was not to be. We managed the first leg of the labyrinth – though twice got lost – and on crossing the road to the annexe, of the concierge there was no sign. We simply could not find our rooms, any directions to them, nor even the route back to the reception. Eventually a kind guest came to our aid. He got lost once but eventually led us to our rooms. Steaming with rage, I called the concierge and then left a negative message on TripAdvisor.

The sad thing is it’s actually a charming hotel, full of patios and fountains. The salons are gracious and the room, decorated in blue and white rustic style, though small was perfectly comfortable. It’s finding it that is the problem. Magellan set from the Port of Seville to circumnavigate the world. It must have been a doddle. The hard bit must have been finding his boat.

 

 

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About Robert Tickler

A man of financial substance, Robert has a wide range of interests and opinions to match. More Posts