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A la Colthard/Noble Rot

I have only heard good things of Noble Rot.

It was once the site of The Gay Hussar in Greek Street where the hand of many a Labour MP, well-fuelled on Bulls Blood, wandered to my thigh!!!

The cuisine was Hungarian and it was a well-known restaurant in the Soho scene particularly favoured by the Left.

The manager, a somewhat unctuous fellow, always seemed to be going or coming back from a memorial service.

Sadly it went under and Noble Rot – originally wine merchants – took it over with some lip service to the Hungarian cuisine but essentially a new look.

Their food and wine list were sensational and its reputation is well-deserved.

There were three of us and we ordered the signature dish of a whole roast chicken in a yellow sauce. It was cooked and served in a bouillon so the chicken jus merged into the sauce.

It was simply scrumptious and illustrated how cooking can be both simple yet succulent.

I had smoked mackerel before and a panna cotta with roosted fig for pud. Both tasty.

It’s known for its award-winning wine list and rightly so.

Remembering my guests enjoy rose we had a bottle of the Xinamavrou Greek variety which was approved, followed by two bottles of Gruner Veltliner.

My only complaint is that being a small narrow restaurant with tables down each side – all taken – it was extremely noisy and I had difficult hearing my guests.

It’s not a “first date” place, nor one for business dining.

It was hard to evaluate the crowd: they were young, diverse and not smartly dressed.

We were the only ones in jackets.

The service was exemplary though it took some time to produce the rose.

It’s about £100 per head which, given the quality of the wine, was fair.

It’s here to stay though next time I will go for lunch.

 

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About Daphne Colthard

After graduating at RADA but finding no roles Daphne went into magazine journalism with Good Housekeeping. Widely recognised as one of the country's leading restaurant and hotel reviewers, particularly by herself, Daphne is the author of "Bedded and Breakfasted", a light hearted chick novel and Grand Hotels DC: the Daffers Dictionary. Daphne lives in West London and is married to an investment banker Oliver. They have 2 boys Humphrey and Tarquin. More Posts