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Wine

Enough to drive you to drink

Writing, as I do today, from the perspective of someone just past their seventieth birthday, I have become all too familiar with the occasional brush with indicators of the ageing process as they affect me from time to time. As regards what are sometimes called “senior moments” – e.g. [...]

November 24, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/Noble Rot

I have only heard good things of Noble Rot. It was once the site of The Gay Hussar in Greek Street where the hand of many a Labour MP, well-fuelled on Bulls Blood, wandered to my thigh!!! The cuisine was Hungarian and it was a well-known restaurant in the Soho scene particularly favoured by the [...]

November 9, 2021 // 0 Comments

A tasting of Austrian wines

The Wine School I attend convened last night to taste Austrian wines. It was the first post-lockdown event I attended and for this alone I enjoyed it. The tutor began by extolling the virtues of Austrian wines: they are organically grown, have more reduced alcoholic content and there is now a [...]

November 5, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/Fischers

I often say the function of a restaurant critic is less to review new restaurants and more to provide a roster of reliable restaurants. Most diners have their favourites as do most reviewers. One of mine is the Viennese style kondotorei Fischers in Marylebone High Street to where I was invited by [...]

October 6, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/Imperial Treasure

When I was first invited to Imperial Treasure by a bon viveur in the advertising world he said the restaurant raised Chinese cuisine to a wholly new level. He could have been talking of the prices but for both he is correct. The chain, started in China, acquired Michelin stars and perhaps [...]

September 3, 2021 // 0 Comments

The art of serendipity

Like I suspect many Rusters I follow my colleague Algy Belville’s posts on the wine trade avidly and – though certainly I would never claim to be an expert – I should estimate that over the past six decades I have drunk very nearly my share of wines of every variety that any sane [...]

May 10, 2021 // 0 Comments

Sassicaia and the Super Tuscans

Fashion, as in many things, determines price in wine. In my lifetime I have witnessed Bordeaux, then Bourgogne, then the Supertuscans dominate the fine red wine market. The rise of Sassicaiia from a table wine in the 1970s to £150 per bottle now is a case in point. Its production is far more [...]

April 8, 2021 // 0 Comments

Lightweight reds

Readers who share my aversion to heavy alcohol reds have asked to recommend lighter ones. This subject was well covered by Jane MacQuitty in The Times last Saturday and Andrew Jefford of   Decanter. Both recommended as lightweight reds the Austrian Bass Zweigelt and Jane Macquitty the John [...]

March 12, 2021 // 0 Comments

The proof is in the alcohol

The other day I opened up a bottle from my cellar of Barberesco – Piero  Busso was the winemaker and it was called Gallina. I saw that is was 14.5% alcohol and two glasses of it gave me a headache for the following day. I did a kindness for a friend on the Rust and he wanted to thank me with [...]

March 10, 2021 // 0 Comments

A virtual wine tasting

Last Sunday was something of a first: a virtual wine tasting. I invited about 12 people but with  declines and dropouts the final number was 6. The day before I spoke to the wine tutor and event organiser expressing a concern that the group might be unfamiliar with the technology which was not [...]

December 16, 2020 // 0 Comments

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