A la Colthard: two favourites revisited.

Up in London this week I met up with old friends at the Guinea Grill and the Wolseley.

The Guinea Grill is unusual as it combines an old-fashioned small pub with an expensive restaurant specialising in fine meat.

One of my friends, an ex-advertising honcho who knows his wine, commented on the saloon bar where we convened that it was full of “diamond geezers”.

True the clientele was white, middle ,aged and noisy.

The restaurant part was once behind the saloon bar, rather cluttered into a small area like a railway carriage, where the sommelier Farid – with swirling moustachios – held court.

It was worth ordering a cognac to see him warm the balloon glass as if it was a chemistry experiment.  Farid has moved on and the Guinea acquired a space opposite.

This has less atmosphere, was more comfortable, and the meats were still first rate.

I ordered a crab and crayfish cocktail which was too delicious and finely-flavoured lamb cutlets.

The total bill was £380 with a Chablis and Chianti Classico (the wine list is so expensive that my friend did not order his traditional Pomerol).

The three of us have known each other for 50 years so it was the occasion as much as the cuisine.

The drinks were hotel – rather than pub – prices: £14 for a Bloody Mary and £27 for a couple of Negronis.

Yesterday it was my turn to host a lunch for another old friend at the Wolseley.

Joint owner Jeremy King knows his business, plying his trade at the Caprice and then successfully launching the Wolseley, Delauney, Zefel and Fischers.

He and partner Chris Corbin, who was manager at Langans, now relaunched, takes enormous care in the decor with the result that their restaurants integrate into the neighbourhood.

I’ve been going to the Wolseley for years, chiefly for breakfast.

There is a wide menu and I ordered chicken coup and half a salt beef sandwich.

That would have been sufficient but I ordered a plate of escargots in a garlic sauce, most of which finished down the front of my shirt!!!!

The only problem with the Wolseley is that the noise level is high.

We were sufficiently well known to be on the inner circle. I noticed Amber Rudd outside the horseshoe.

Jeremy King gave an interview in a local glossy on the lockdown.

He expressed strong views that furlough did not include tips and was therefore tough on foreign staff.  He therefore issued vouchers to generate funds for them.

He has a loyal clientele who took these up. This and a food delivery service got them through but the restaurant was noticeably less full.