Articles by Daphne Colthard
I call Sussex the new Rust Belt. Robert Tickler has acquired a pile on the cliffs by Roedean School, Alan Tanner is more downmarket with a bungalow he has bought in Worthing, whilst Nancy Bright Thompson has been a resident of East Sussex for many years. We all convened for tea at Stanmer House, [...]
A la Colthard : Kazan Wilton Road.
I have a problem with Mediterranean cuisine, by which I mean Greek, Turkish and Levantine – namely, its lack of range and of diversity of restaurant. French food, particularly in France, has its grand foodie establishments; the brasserie ; the neighbourhood restaurant and – at [...]
A la Colthard: K Hotel West and spa
The K hotel is located in that rather anonymous quarter Estate agents called Olympia Village between Shepherds Bish and Olympia. Its not an obvious place for a cool boutique hotel but for that K Hotel impressed. I went there for a day of spa and lunch treating my godson’s mother. It got [...]
A la Colthard : The Cherwell Boathouse
My old friend Sebastian, who is an art collector, invited me for a birthday treat to the Cherwell Boathouse in Oxford. He first wanted to view the Henry and Rose Pearlman collection at the Ashmolean: Cezanne and the Modern. Pearlman, an American tycoon, made his money in refrigeration. After [...]
A la Colthard :Tozi (again)
We restaurant critics rarely review the same place twice twice, let alone within 2 months. At my first visit to Tozi I thought it sensational but my host then had known it well and ordered. This time I was the guest of an old friend and it was his first time. He did the ordering, but the maitre [...]
A la Colthard
We restaurant reviewers like nothing more than home cooking. Sounds blasé but true. Last Friday Ollie decided to cook the meal. He is not an imaginative cook but prepares simple dishes well, so he went to the wet fish section of Waitrose and bought 2 crabs and some salmon. The salmon he cooked in [...]
Aqua Shard
There is a saying amongst restaurant reviewers “never trust a place with a great view.” There is another “never accept an invitation from an owner”. I went against both yesterday when I visited Aqua Shard as guest of one of the two owners, Richard Ward. But first the view. [...]
Greens
Greens at Duke Street, St. James, was a great favourite of mine in the eighties. Owned by Simon Parker Bowles, it epitomised the elegant English fish restaurant but was always more fun than Wiltons or Bentleys. It certainly was not cheap but I took the view that I would pay a subscription if it [...]
Tozi
I detect something exciting and innovative in the restaurant scene. For the last 20 years it has been driven by celebrity chefs. Now new vistas are opening. I already praised, as have many, Mr Wong for its combination of street food and haute cuisine, in offering Hong Kong Chinese in a new [...]
The Regency, Brighton
As I was meeting Nancy Bright Thompson for lunch, I was mindful of her comment that travel writers are not that interested in writing about the cheap end of the market. It’s much the same with us restaurant critics, who are rather too easily seduced by sophisticated PR and the celebrity cult. [...]
