Articles by Daphne Colthard
On Friday I made my second visit to Lorne and was impressed. It’s located in Wilton Street, not far from Victoria Station, and its owners learned their trade at the River Cafe, a breeding ground for chefs and restauranteurs. My host and I ordered the same: a warm winter salad of parsnips and [...]
A la Colthard/The Ivy in The Lanes
I am getting more and more concerned by service and organisation of local restaurants which I have patronised. At the Ivy in the Lanes yesterday evening the greeting was poor, my friend’s steak, ordered as medium rare, was virtually raw. We had difficulty in attracting a waiter/waitress, the [...]
A la Colthard/Noble Rot
I have only heard good things of Noble Rot. It was once the site of The Gay Hussar in Greek Street where the hand of many a Labour MP, well-fuelled on Bulls Blood, wandered to my thigh!!! The cuisine was Hungarian and it was a well-known restaurant in the Soho scene particularly favoured by the [...]
A la Colthard: post lockdown problems
On my assessment and experience restaurants are in a tricky situation now. They want to make up for revenue lost in the lockdown but are hit by staff absenteeism and supply of food. At my beloved English’s yesterday we all commented that the oysters seemed frozen and the batter on the fish and [...]
A la Colthard/Rockwater
Readers will recall my wariness of restaurants with great views. The Rockwater is one such and where I lunched yesterday. It is situated on the esplanade at Hove and from our window table we could see the breakers. Yet the whole restaurant experience was unsatisfying. There did not seem to be [...]
A la Colthard/ Langans rides again
Over the weekend in the Financial Times supplement appropriately named How to Spend it I read a review of the new Langans – acquired and revamped by Graiano Arricale and James Kitchen. The original Langans was the restaurant of the 70s and 80s. Michael Caine, Peter Langan and Richard [...]
A la Colthard/Fischers
I often say the function of a restaurant critic is less to review new restaurants and more to provide a roster of reliable restaurants. Most diners have their favourites as do most reviewers. One of mine is the Viennese style kondotorei Fischers in Marylebone High Street to where I was invited by [...]
A la Colthard/Imperial Treasure
When I was first invited to Imperial Treasure by a bon viveur in the advertising world he said the restaurant raised Chinese cuisine to a wholly new level. He could have been talking of the prices but for both he is correct. The chain, started in China, acquired Michelin stars and perhaps [...]
A La Colthard/the Royal Crescent Bath
It was Nancy’s idea that “Rusters On European Tour” might make a trip to Bath. Alice (Mansfield) wanted to see the Canaletto exhibition at the Holburne museum Bath and I don’t need much excuse to revisit one of my favourite hotels The Royal Crescent. As the name would suggest the [...]
A la Colthard: two new, two old
When a new restaurant opens in my adopted city it’s something of an event. Here I am reviewing two: Burnt Orange in Middle Street and Taste in Brighton Marina. That any restaurant is opening whilst we are in pandemic mode is itself significant. Middle Street is one of the more interesting streets [...]
