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Restaurant Reviews

A la Colthard/Noble Rot and Regency Brighton

I returned to Noble Rot in the week for lunch. It’s located in Greek St Soho – a quarter much changed in the last 20 years. Noble Rot had a reasonably-priced fixed price menu but, as I wanted the roasted chicken with morels au sauce jaune, I went a la carte. I invited an old and elegant [...]

January 13, 2022 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/The Ivy, Burnt Orange & Garrick Club

This time of year I develop mal de foie as I’ve had 3 consecutive long lunches. On Sunday we – my two companions being a French friend and her friend – were greeted at the Ivy In the Lanes Brighton by a woman who looking into her iPad could find no trace of our reservation. She [...]

December 17, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard: two favourites revisited.

Up in London this week I met up with old friends at the Guinea Grill and the Wolseley. The Guinea Grill is unusual as it combines an old-fashioned small pub with an expensive restaurant specialising in fine meat. One of my friends, an ex-advertising honcho who knows his wine, commented on the [...]

December 11, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard /Lorne & the Glasshouse

On Friday I made my second visit to Lorne and was impressed. It’s located in Wilton Street, not far from Victoria Station, and its owners learned their trade at the River Cafe, a breeding ground for chefs and restauranteurs. My host and I ordered the same: a warm winter salad of parsnips and [...]

November 29, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/The Ivy in The Lanes

I am getting more and more concerned by service and organisation of local restaurants which I have patronised. At the Ivy in the Lanes yesterday evening the greeting was poor, my friend’s steak, ordered as medium rare, was virtually raw. We had difficulty in attracting a waiter/waitress, the [...]

November 23, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/Noble Rot

I have only heard good things of Noble Rot. It was once the site of The Gay Hussar in Greek Street where the hand of many a Labour MP, well-fuelled on Bulls Blood, wandered to my thigh!!! The cuisine was Hungarian and it was a well-known restaurant in the Soho scene particularly favoured by the [...]

November 9, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard: post lockdown problems

On my assessment and experience restaurants are in a tricky situation now. They want to make up for revenue lost in the lockdown but are hit by staff absenteeism and supply of food. At my beloved English’s yesterday we all commented that the oysters seemed frozen and the batter on the fish and [...]

October 28, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/Rockwater

Readers will recall my wariness of restaurants with great views. The Rockwater is one such and where I lunched yesterday. It is situated on the esplanade at Hove and from our window table we could see the breakers. Yet the whole restaurant experience was unsatisfying. There did not seem to be [...]

October 22, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/ Langans rides again

Over the weekend in the Financial Times supplement appropriately named How to Spend it I read a review of the new Langans – acquired and revamped by Graiano Arricale and James Kitchen. The original Langans was the restaurant of the 70s and 80s. Michael Caine, Peter Langan and Richard [...]

October 12, 2021 // 0 Comments

A la Colthard/Fischers

I often say the function of a restaurant critic is less to review new restaurants and more to provide a roster of reliable restaurants. Most diners have their favourites as do most reviewers. One of mine is the Viennese style kondotorei Fischers in Marylebone High Street to where I was invited by [...]

October 6, 2021 // 0 Comments

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